At Cobble Hill, Hawkeye Couple Serves Up Flavors of the Heartland

PHOTO: JOHN EMIGH Inspired by the local food movement in New York, UI alumni Andy and Carrie Schumacher opened a farm-to-table restaurant in 2013 in Cedar Rapids.

Each year, the James Beard Foundation unveils its list of the nation’s top restaurants in what’s known as the Oscars of the culinary world.

PHOTO: JOHN EMIGH Andy Schumacher was a semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef: Midwest award earlier this year.

This past January, Andy Schumacher (03BS), head chef and co-owner of Cobble Hill restaurant in Cedar Rapids, became a semifinalist for Best Chef: Midwest—a decade after his first recognition from the James Beard Foundation.

He and his wife, Carrie (01BA), began their culinary journey at Quinton’s in downtown Iowa City, where they first met as University of Iowa students over 20 years ago. Young and untethered after graduation, Carrie encouraged Andy to enroll in a nine-month culinary program in New York. “He was really into cooking,” says Carrie, “so we were like, why not?”

Over the next four years, the Schumachers lived in a one-bedroom apartment in Brooklyn. Carrie, who originally planned to be a high school guidance counselor, grew interested in managing restaurants.

The vibrant food scene inspired the Schumachers as they tasted their way through New York’s hidden gems and neighborhood favorites. “There were all these restaurants,” says Carrie. “You could walk down the street, music was going, doors were open—this beautiful food and beautiful ambience.”

PHOTO: JOHN EMIGH Cobble Hill co-owner and general manager Carrie Schumacher got her start in the restaurant business at Quinton's in downtown Iowa City.

But more than that, these local fixtures were welcoming to all. “You could be in your sneakers, pushing your carriage,” says Carrie, “and feel just as welcome as anybody else celebrating a special occasion.”

By the time their daughter—now a student at Iowa—was a toddler and the Schumachers were pregnant with their second child, the inspiration from New York’ s culinary culture had sparked a dream: They wanted a restaurant of their own. But city life had become increasingly unsustainable—and they missed the support of family.

They headed home to Iowa and gave it a shot.

Back in eastern Iowa, they spent another four years reestablishing themselves in the community. Andy became sous chef at the former Lincoln Café in Mount Vernon, and Carrie worked in hospitality and catering. Between those experiences and their years in New York, they gained the support and skills to build the kind of restaurant they’d only imagined. Cobble Hill, located just a block from the Paramount Theatre in downtown Cedar Rapids, would provide locally sourced contemporary American fare.

“We’re in the agricultural hub of the United States,” says Carrie, “and it’s like, wow, I didn’t even have a sense of how precious and beautiful that is and what that can do to the food scene [in the Midwest].”

In New York, chefs can pop over to the nearest market for fresh produce right before service. Although the ingredients are within walking distance, they’re often sold far from where they’re grown.

Not in Iowa.

“Nothing we’ve ever put on the menu—with a couple of rare exceptions—has ever been on the menu more than once,” says Andy about the menu that changes seasonally. “A lot of that is dictated by the seasonality of the produce.”

PHOTO: JOHN EMIGH Chef Andy Schumacher is pictured at his restaurant, Cobble Hill, in Cedar Rapids.

You’ll never see a tomato when it’s not in season, but maintaining seasonality can be difficult, especially in the winter months. Through the relationships they’ve built, they can now go beyond what’s typically available.

Some of their farmers ask, “What do you want us to grow?” or “Is there something you want for the menu?” One supplier came in nearly a decade ago as a hobby farmer and now brings in seed catalogs to offer special plants grown just for Cobble Hill’s menu, like sunchokes, a starchy root belonging to the sunflower family. “We’ll try to feature these new ingredients or come up with an idea for a new dish,” says Andy. “It’s fluid and dynamic.”

In the 12 years since opening Cobble Hill, the Schumachers have deeply rooted themselves in the local and statewide culinary community. Along the way, they’ve strengthened their personal relationship by supporting each other’s individual gifts and talents. “It’s unique to have a partner or spouse you can work with successfully,” says Andy. “We’ve been able to find each other and find roles that work for us.”

Carrie adds, “When people have separate jobs, you don’t get to see what they’re actually doing. Watching him be a mentor and teacher is pretty neat. He’s so good at that.”

While Andy teaches new skills and collaborates with his kitchen staff, Carrie ensures everyone feels welcome at the front of house as co-owner and general manager. She curates warm spaces, crafts fresh-cut floral arrangements each week, and curates a thoughtful wine list.

When the food arrives, plated with care, guests already feel transported. Between the exposed brick wall, giant white pillars, and candlelight, this Cedar Rapids restaurant almost looks like it belongs in New York—but it feels like home.